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Site name: Mit-tutta-hang-kush

Last Village of the Mandan


Nearest town: Washburn; State/country: North Dakota; Type of site: Native American Village (Mandan; later Arikara); Date of site: probably 1822 to 1861; Sponsor: State Historical Society of North Dakota; Collaborators: State Historical Society of North Dakota, PaleoCultural Research Group, University of Missouri, University of Kansas.


Comments: The community of Mit-tutta-hang-kush was occupied by the Mitutanika Mandan from the summer of 1822 until 1837, the year of a disastrous smallpox epidemic. The site is located on a high terrace above the Missouri River, which provided good defense on two sides of the village from attacks by native enemies. The remaining village perimeter was protected by a palisade. The Fort Clark Trading Post and Primeau's Trading Post, important centers in the 19th century fur trade, were located adjacent to this village. Many first-hand written accounts exist about this site. Its visitors included Prince Maximilian of Wied, and the artists Catlin and Bodmer who left depictions of the village and its occupants in paintings (first three figures, by Bodmer, Bodmer, and Catlin, respectively). In June of 1837 the steamboat St. Peters arrived at Fort Clark carrying three Arikara women recovering from smallpox. By July the disease broke out in the village. At the epidemic's height, in August, the survivors moved to their winter village ahead of schedule. Before they returned to Mit-tutta-hang-kush the following spring, it was occupied by their rivals, the Arikara, who continued occupying this site until 1862. It is estimated that the smallpox epidemic reduced the approximately 1,600 Mandan to about 125.

Today this large site, measuring nearly 400 x 200 m, exhibits numerous "house" depressions" in the landscape indicating the loci of the former earthlodges of the Mandan and Arikara. Some of of these topographic features can be seen in the photograph at the top of this page, and in an aerial photograph of the site (fourth icon), which also illustrates the area investigated by the geophysical surveys.

Type of survey: Magnetic gradiometry; Instrument: Geoscan Research FM-36 fluxgate gradiometer; Prospection depth: up to 1.5 m; Sampling interval: 0.5 x 0.25 m; Area surveyed: 8,000 m2; Dates of survey: 7/00.

The magnetic survey, depicted in blue in the figure, represents a transect 400 m long by 20 m wide through the center of this site (see the aerial photograph, above). Many of the circular earthlodges (see the figure by Catlin, above, for a depiction of these lodges when they were occupied), about 15-20 m in diameter, are indicated, as are some of their internal features like centrally placed and auxiliary hearths, storage pits, and internal support posts. Also revealed is a portion of the perimeter fortification ditch and the village plaza of the Mandan. The presence of numerous iron artifacts is indicated by a large number of dipole anomalies; it is clear that some lodges possessed many more iron artifacts than others.

Type of survey: Resistivity; Instrument: Geoscan Research RM-15 & MPX-15 (configured as 4 parallel twin); Prospection depth: 0.5 m; Sampling interval: 0.5 x 0.5 m; Area surveyed: 5,600 m2; Dates of survey: 6/00.

The resistance survey, depicted in red in this figure, covers much the same area as the magnetic survey. Many of the earthlodges are clearly indicated, paralleling and augmenting the magnetic evidence. Importantly, there is at least one instance of overlapping lodges which may indicate the placement of a later Arikara house over an earlier Mandan lodge. A trail feature, known to lead to a nearby contemporary village, also is revealed. The expression of a large Arikara ceremonial lodge is particularly clear, including some of its internal features like the central hearth.

Type of survey: Ground penetrating radar; Instrument: Geophysical Survey Systems, Inc., SIR-2000; Prospection depth: about 1.5 m; Sampling interval: 0.5 x 0.02 m; Area surveyed: 20 x 25 m; Dates of survey: 7/00.

A limited GPR survey was conducted over an area devoid of any surface evidence of a house, but where the resistivity survey stronly indicated one. A GPR time slice, from 11.5-15.5 nS taken across the 50 GPR profiles, shows the floor area and entryway of this previously unknown earthlodge.

 

In 1832 Catlin described Mah-to-toh-pa, The Four Bears, second chief of the Mandan, as "the most extraordinary man, perhaps, who lives at this day in the atmosphere of nature's noblemen...wearing a robe with the history of his battles upon it, which would fill a book in themselves, if properly translated." Catlin twice painted him, as did Bodmer, with one of the latter's depictions shown here. Catlin relates his friend's demise (in 1837), learned from the trader Kipp, which well represents the calamity that befell these proud people.

"This fine fellow sat in his lodge and watched every one of his family die about him (of the smallpox), his wives and his children...when he walked out, around the village, and wept over the final destruction of his tribe; his braves and warriors all laid low; when he came back to his lodge, where he covered his whole family with a number of robes, and wrapping another around himself, went out upon a hill at a little distance, where he laid for several days...resolved to starve himself to death. He remained there until the sixth day, when he had just strength enough to creep back to the village, when he entered the horrid gloom of his own wigwam, and laying his body alongside of the group of his family, drew his robe over him, and died on the ninth day... So have perished the friendly and hospitable Mandans" (Letters and Notes on the Manners, Customs, and Condition of the North American Indians, Vol. II, pp. 257-59, 1841).

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(updated: 7/00)